The chinar groves of Srinagar turn copper in late September. Houseboats are quiet. Shikaras glide. We share a 7-day itinerary that skips the obvious and lingers at the lakes.
Day one — old city walk and dinner at our favourite rooftop. Day two — drive to Sonamarg, the first night in a tent. Days three to six — the great lakes. Day seven — back to Srinagar, a shikara at sunrise, a flight home.